At the group home, some form of pork is on the menu at least once a week. Food Lion's pork selection is inconsistent at best, devoid at worst. We used to get the thin sliced pork chops, but these were fatty and too easy for people to overcook....if I were not to cook. Heh. They had pre-seasoned and sauced pork loins, but I found, while they're really easy to cook and require no thought, the texture was that of a dish sponge and were very off-putting. I could do better on my own.
I started buying a whole, plain pork loin, and since they are not trimmed or seasoned, they're usually on sale. Buying one can feed my guys and staff, including me, and then some, going for only $12 or so, give or take a few bucks. It is also intimidating to prep, and thus, makes it a high probability that I will be the one to cook it. My co-supervisor Jim has some cooking chops as well, and he does it sometimes.
Monday, it was pork loin night, and Jim wasn't there. It was my time. I had just gone shopping Sunday, so the kitchen had plenty of goodies. I was feeling it, and was in the mood to really experiment. I have tried to make sauces before. The first time I ever tried was when I made a mushroom demi-glace, and I was following strict instructions. Despite the instruction, it was still a difficult thing to make, and easy to mess up. The demi-glace came out great, along with everything else we cooked that night,
but that's another episode.
From that one experience with that demi-glace, I learned a few techniques, and I've been experimenting with other forms with no help whatsoever other than trial and error. Every sauce I've made since hasn't really be satisfactory to me. Some people have liked them, but I always found them to be too chalky or bland or too soupy. As it were, this would not be the case on this night. I would have my triumph, and eat it too.
In plain detail, I'll tell you what was made, then break it down, step by step. I made a roasted pork loin with a stock reduction sauce. And I have some steamed cabbage and herb rice on the side.
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| Pork loin, trimmed down |
To start, I grabbed the pork loin and trimmed the fat and cartilage. This is something I know I do wrong. Fat = flavor. But the loins at food lion, more often than not, have a big vein of cartilage through the middle; the main side is white meat, and the other is dark. Most of time when this sheet of cartilage is there, its right on the surface of the majority of the cut of meat. I like to get rid of most of that as I can. Usually, I throw all the trimmings in the trash. On this day, I saved them for an experiment.
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| Seasoned and ready to go |
Before I could use the trimmings, I preheated the oven to 375 F and seasoned the pork loin. First and foremost, I liberally use kosher salt everywhere on the cut. Then with a tupperware container in hand, I start pouring in spices that I want to put on the loin. I'll try to remember everything I used Monday: black pepper, paprika, smoked paprika, ground thyme, ground mustard, garlic powder, onion powder, cheyenne pepper, and a little allspice for a note of sweetness. Do not ask me how much of each I used. It was a lot, and like I said, I rarely measure out anything. After mixing all the spices well in the tupperware, and after rubbing the pork loin down in extra virgin olive oil, I spread the spices all over. The second the oven was ready, I put the pork loin in with a thermometer.
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| The brown bits on the pan has flavor |
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| Beginnings of the stock reduction |
I then heated our one big sautee pan and threw in the trimmings after salting them a bit. I let the fat and bits of meat brown, creating some nice fond on the bottom of the pan. This is what I have learned to be a
Maillard Reaction. That's the wiki page, but I learned it from
Ruhlman's book. When it was getting sort of dark, I poured in the chicken stock, getting all that tasty fond to dissolve into the liquid. I added a dash of the leftover spices from the pork loin, a handful of fresh thyme, and a few dried bay leaves. I then grabbed some flour and sprinkled some into the liquid a little at a time. Each dash of flour was well mixed before I would add more. Then I added a big dollop of grain mustard, stirring well again. I let it come to a simmer before reducing the heat to a medium-low. I stirred it almost every 2 minutes for about 40 minutes, letting it reduce to half volume.

While this was going on, I prepped the rice. 4 cups rice, 6 cups chicken stock, 2 cups water, salt, pepper, olive oil, fresh basil, fresh thyme, dried oregano, garlic powder, and onion powder. Put it on high heat till you have a rolling boil. Cover the pot and put it on the lowest temp setting on your stove. 20 minutes later, you have perfect rice every time. You know its done when you stir it up and see no standing moisture, but it's not sticking to the bottom yet. When you get there, remove it from the heat and keep covered. It'll stay warm, I promise.

While the rice was cooking, and I was still keeping an eye on the sauce, I diced a small cabbage, making sure to get rid of the outer leaves and core. I dressed the diced cabbage in a bowl with salt, pepper, olive oil, and a quick snap of water from the faucet. I added half of a white onion, diced to the same size as the cabbage, and added the rest of the fresh basil I had from the rice. Tossed it in the bowl well, wrapped several times over (the entire bowl!) in plastic wrap, then put it in the microwave on high for 20 minutes. I much prefer to sautee cabbage, but my one big pan was occupied at the moment.
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| It smelled so good |
I felt good about my sauce at this point, and the pork loin was almost done, so I decided to pull the sauce and strain it through my sieve. I was really lucky my sieve was at the group home, and I can't remember why it was there in the first place. It was probably only the second time I've used it. In retrospect, I could have benefited from straining it twice, but I only did it once to keep from dirtying another bowl. What was left was a smooth, rich, and thick sauce that made my knees tremble.
After it was strained, I gave it a taste. Despite being a bit too salty, I couldn't believe how successful this was. To cut the saltiness, I brainstormed for a moment. I thought some sort of cream would make this, but I stopped buying regular milk at the group home long ago. We had soy milk, but it was "very vanilla" flavored. I might be a newbie, but I don't think that soy milk would match well with my sauce. Then I saw some light sour cream, and immediately grabbed it, throwing in a few dollops and mixing well. I tasted again, and I almost wept. I'm serious.
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| omfg |
When the pork hit 135 F internal, I took it out of the oven, put on a wrack, lightly covered it with tin foil and waited a good 10 minutes. By that time, even out of the oven, the carryover cooking took it to a perfect 145 F. I cut the pork loin into our standard serving sizes, then opened the buffet for everyone to serve themselves. I'm sorry, but I went first.
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| Best I've done with this dish, ever |
The concern was still there with the saltiness of the sauce, but once it was on the pork loin, it was in perfect harmony. The pork loin was tender and juicy from end to end. The rice was savory and cooked perfectly. The cabbage was al dente, but still soft, tasting fresh, letting the natural sweetness of the cabbage shine. I could eat the rice or cabbage alone, or I could get a bit of EVERYTHING at once...each bite got me high.
I was so aware of everything I was doing and putting out there, that I feel confident that I could replicate this entire dish at any time. It's Thursday now, and I'm still thinking about this dish, especially the sauce. It's what I am most proud of, and what tasted the best on the plate.
God, I wish you could have tried this.